The History of the Hagia Sophia

Were we excited to visit the Hagia Sophia? One of the most legendary buildings on the planet? The largest church in the world for a thousand years? The scene of some of history’s most decisive moments? A breathtaking architectural achievement on a scale unthinkable for its day? Yes, I think it’s fair to say that we were excited… Read More

A Day in Zeyrek

The lively neighborhood of Zeyrek, found just north past the Aqueduct of Valens, is one of our favorite spots in Istanbul. It’s difficult to reach with public transportation, and lacks any well-known sights, which means that very few tourists bother to visit. Not that we mind; it just leaves more Zeyrek for us… Read More

The Çarşamba Market and the Fatih Camii

The word Çarşamba is Turkish for “Wednesday”, and also the name of a neighborhood in Istanbul. Now, what do you suspect might be the best day to visit this neighborhood? You get one guess… Read More

St. Mary of the Mongols and the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate

We spent a long day walking along the southern coast of the Golden Horn, from the Atatürk Bridge to the ancient Jewish quarter of Balat. This is an older, quieter side of Istanbul that not enough tourists see, although it has a number of interesting sights, including a few beautiful churches… Read More

The Gül Camii and Aya Nikola

Istanbul has no shortage of cool old churches and mosques, and it can often feel like too much of a good thing. “You know”, Jürgen or I will remark on a increasingly frequent basis, “I think we’ve visited enough mosques”. And we’ll briefly consider changing the day’s plans. But what are we going to do? Just ignore something as cool as the Rose Mosque?… Read More

The Rezan Has Museum

Set in the basement of an old tobacco factory on the southern shore of the Golden Horn, the Rezan Has Museum presents a thoughtful walk through Turkey’s archaeological history, from the copper age to the arrival of the Selçuks… Read More

Our First Hamam: The Kılıç Ali Paşa

It’s hard to imagine that we could have found a better place for our first Turkish bath than the Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı. This historic hamam in Tophane is one of Istanbul’s most beautiful, and has only recently reopened after years of restoration. We were invited to visit on a Sunday afternoon… Read More

The Historic Arcades of İstiklal Caddesi

I’m beginning to think that we could have dedicated 91 days to just Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district. In fact, a blog devoted entirely to the city’s main shopping street isn’t inconceivable. İstiklal Caddesi For 91 Days. The number of bars, restaurants, shops, theaters and galleries along “Independence Street” is overwhelming. We recently spent an entire day exploring ten of its historic arcades… Read More

The Land Walls – Day Two

The Walls of Theodosius protected Constantinople from invasion for a thousand years, until finally being breached by the Ottoman forces of Mehmet II in 1453. Aside from the magnificent old walls themselves, there are a number of sights along them, and a walk along their length, from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn, makes for an excellent excursion. It’s only six kilometers and could easily be completed in a day, but we decided to split it into two… Read More

The Panorama 1453 History Museum

The Conquest of Constantinople was, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the most important event in Turkish history. On May 29th 1453, the Ottomans put an end to the Byzantines, and began a lengthy reign as one of the world’s most powerful empires, after the troops of Sultan Mehmet II managed to breach the Theodosian Walls. Today, near the exact spot of the Byzantine Empire’s final stand, there’s a museum which recreates the battle in stunning detail… Read More

A Walk Along the Land Walls – Day One

Stretching for six kilometers from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn, the Land Walls of Theodosius II kept Constantinople safe from invaders for over a thousand years… until the arrival of the Ottomans and their giant cannons in 1453. The walls have survived mostly intact to the present day, and a walk along them makes for a rewarding day out. Or, as in our case, multiple days out… Read More

The Istanbul Film Festival and Turkish Cinema

Run by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts since 1982, the Istanbul Film Festival brings excellent movies from around the world to the city’s theaters, with a special focus on home-grown cinema. And as we’ve learned since arriving, there is plenty to celebrate about Turkish cinema… Read More

Istanbul Quick Eats: Kumpir, Çiğ Köfte & Soggy Burgers

While on the go, we’re often in the mood for something more substantial than a simit, but have no time for a real meal. Luckily, Istanbul has plenty of cheap ways to fill up on quick energy… here are a few of our favorites:… Read More