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Silver Filigree with Ohrid’s Marta Pejoska
One can still find a number of traditional craftsmen toiling away within the picturesque buildings of Ohrid’s historic quarter. Craftswomen, too. During our time in Ohrid, we had the chance to hang out with Marta Pejoska, who had recently opened a downtown studio-gallery dedicated to silver filigree… Read More

Sep 01, 2014


Šipokno and the Cave Church of Sv Stefan
Sveti Stefan is an ancient cave church found in the cliffs south of Ohrid. The trail continues upward past the church, into the hills, until eventually reaching Šipokno: an abandoned village whose forsaken houses are in the process of being reclaimed by nature… Read More

Aug 31, 2014


A Walk Down Ohrid’s Promenade
There are a lot of activities one could choose to participate in during a trip to Ohrid. Scuba diving, paragliding, hiking and sailing are just some of the options for those who crave action. But “action” is the last thing which most of Ohrid’s visitors are looking for. This is where Macedonians come to escape their daily lives. For that, nothing’s better than laziness on the lake… Read More

Aug 28, 2014


Ohrid’s Byzantine Churches
Throughout the Middle Ages, Ohrid was among the most important religious centers in the Balkans. There were reportedly 365 churches in the small city, one for every day of the year. Most have since vanished, because they were destroyed or converted into mosques by the Ottoman Empire, but Ohrid still possesses more than its fair share of amazing churches… Read More

Aug 26, 2014


Ohrid: The Jewel of Macedonia
Glimmering in the southwestern corner of Macedonia is Lake Ohrid: one of the oldest lakes in the world. Both the lake and the town which shares its name are listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Over the years, Ohrid has developed into Macedonia’s favorite summer retreat. Whether to play in the pristine water, dance the night away, or just escape the heat, Macedonians and visitors from across the Balkans descend upon the lake in droves… Read More

Aug 22, 2014


Skupi: Digging Up Skopje’s Ancestor
On the western edge of Skopje, we came across a large archaeological dig in full swing. A team was engaged in dusting off rocks, writing in notebooks, and carting off wheelbarrows laden with dirt. This was the site of the ancient Roman city of Skupi and we saw archaeologists at work slowly laying bare its massive theater… Read More

Aug 18, 2014


Foreign Cemeteries from the Great War
The Balkans were a major theater during World War I, and the fighting was especially intense in Macedonia, which was part of the Serbian Kingdom at the time. The Allies and the Central Powers sent tens of thousands of soldiers into the land, many of whom would never return home… Read More

Aug 16, 2014


Skopje’s Museum of Contemporary Art
After the devastating earthquake of 1963, the international community turned its eyes to Macedonia’s capital, contributing generously to the rebuilding process with money, materials, manpower… and art. A Contemporary Art Museum was among the principal projects for post-earthquake Skopje, and the world’s artists were determined to help make it something special… Read More

Aug 16, 2014


Sveti Spas – The Church of the Holy Savior
Found on a hill in Skopje’s Old Bazaar near the Kale Fortress, is the Sveti Spas, or Church of the Holy Savior. Built around 1800 on the remains of an older church, this is a small structure whose modest exterior belies the incredible artwork hiding within… Read More

Aug 13, 2014


Vrelo Cave at Matka Canyon
We had already hiked to Matka from Mount Vodno, but made a return trip to check out Vrelo: Macedonia’s most famous cave. Most of Vrelo lies underwater and athough nobody has managed to fully explore its depths, it’s presumed by many to be the deepest in the world… Read More

Aug 12, 2014


King Marko’s Monastery
South of Skopje on the outskirts of an unassuming village called Markova Sušica, is the Markov Monastir. Built in 1346 by Marko, King of Serbia, this medieval monastery has remained remarkably unaffected by the passage of time… Read More

Aug 11, 2014


Skopje’s Ancient Aqueduct
Just outside the city center, north of the Vardar in a field bordering the Ilinden army barracks, is an ancient aqueduct that has somehow survived the centuries intact. Its state of preservation is made even more impressive by the fact that the poor thing is completely neglected, unprotected by any organization or agency… Read More

Aug 10, 2014


Skopje’s Turkish Trading Inns and the Bezisten
Among the Ottoman-era buildings still standing in Skopje’s Old Bazaar are three Turkish trading inns and the old covered market, called the Bezisten. We visited them all, to see how these ancient buildings have been incorporated into the modern city… Read More

Aug 09, 2014

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