A Visit To Palermo’s Puppet Museum

The art of puppetry has a long history in Sicily. Since the Middle Ages, puppet shows have been one of the island’s most popular forms of entertainment. Thanks to the advent of television and radio, the shows are less important than they once were, but Palermo still boasts a few places to catch a performance. We visited the Teatro Ippogrifo, near the Quattro Canti, and had a blast with a story that was loud, funny and surprisingly violent.

Most Sicilian puppet shows are based on the medieval legends of knights and princesses. Our story began with a knight sleeping under a tree. Awoken by the cries of his beloved, who has been snatched away by an evil maharajah, he undertakes a mission to free her, which will bring him to India through the decimated corpses of his foes. It was all in Italian, but the plot wasn’t exactly difficult to follow.

The show was performed by two puppeteers. Each marionette was attached to a long wooden stick, which the performers held out over the stage. After the show, I had a chance to hold one of the puppets; they’re made of wood, wearing armor, and are really heavy! I can’t imagine holding that stick for a half-hour, let alone doing the voice work. No, my puppet show would be a boring affair. “Alas, I cannot go on!” would say my noble prince, laying on the floor three minutes into the story. “To sleep, perchance to dream!” The End.

Luckily, I wasn’t in charge of the show we watched. Our knight was involved in numerous battles, which were my favorite sequences. Because they were hilarious. The opponents would fling themselves at each other, over and over, with swords rattling and clanking, and the boots of the puppeteers stomping on the wooden stage. Sometimes, a head would fly off. One puppet was carved in two by the hero’s vicious blade. It was great.

If you’re in town, definitely try and make it to a show. And while walking around, keep your eyes open for the workshops of puppet makers, especially in the alleys just east of Teatro Massimo. Whether they’re carving new puppets or hammering out their armor, they usually don’t mind if you stop and watch for a bit.

Location of Teatro Ippogrifo on our Palermo Map
-The Masks of Bolivia

Cefalù Hotels

Until recently, the weather during our stay in Palermo had been uncommonly pleasant. But luck never lasts and, eventually, the rains and cold came. The day we chose for our visit to Cefalù was unpredictable, with clear blue skies suddenly giving way to thunderstorms. Secretly, Jürgen and I both wanted to postpone the trip, but didn’t want to be the wimp to suggest it. And so, full of pride and regret, we hopped on the train to Cefalù. “Well, I don’t mind going but, honestly, if you’d rather not…”

Cefalù numbers just 13,000, but its population balloons in the summer. The town is one of Sicily’s finest beach resorts and attracts sunbathers from all over Italy and Europe. From what we’ve heard, it’s unbearable when crowded. And although we found the streets were empty in December, the emphasis on tourism was abundantly clear. €3 cappuccinos and stores sadly hawking magnets and postcards to phantoms.

Cefalù is most memorable for the giant rock which flanks it. Throwing its massive shadow over the old town, La Rocca juts up vertically alongside Cefalu, and is crowned with the ruins of the Greek Temple of Diana. We had a good view of La Rocca from the beach, where we started our visit. With soft, golden sand, the beach is the reason for Cefalù’s summertime popularity, but was difficult to enjoy in the freezing rain.

Soon enough, we left the beach to seek shelter in the city’s cathedral. The Duomo is reminiscent of Monreale’s, built in the same century (12th) by the same king (Roger II). And, like Monreale’s cathedral, it features original Byzantine mosaics; actually older, though somewhat less impressive. Another similarity is the presence of a square cloister, filled with columns that depict interesting biblical scenes.

The Cathedral and the beach are great, but we most enjoyed ambling about Cefalù’s ancient streets, which date from Roman times. Even in the rain, or perhaps especially because of it, the town, with its curvy alleys and stunning natural location, exudes a natural charm. Very picturesque. We went north until finding the belvedere, which faces the sea. There, we found a path which runs along the stones, following the ancient Greek walls, and foolishly decided to walk it. I mean, we knew there were huge waves crashing violently against the rocks. We could see them! But, I don’t know, we were bored or feeling adventurous. But minutes after embarking on this ill-advised escapade, we got trapped by the ocean and ended up soaking wet.

It didn’t matter much, because we were already drenched from the rain, but this final, unwanted shower put an end to our day, and we stomped back to the train station. Still, we had enjoyed the day out. It’d be interesting to see how Cefalù changes in the summer, but if you have the chance, it’s definitely worth a look in the low-season. A beautiful little escape, just an hour by train from Palermo.

Location of Cefalù on our Sicily Map
-B&Bs in Cefalù

Other Interesting Things We Ate

Thinking about Sicilian food nearly always sets the stomach to growling. Perfectly-baked pizzas, al dente pasta smothered in a rich ragú, fried arancine, swordfish filets, cannoli, pani c’a meusa. Mmmmm… Hold on, wait just a second. That last one, I don’t recognize that. “Oh no? Well then, my friend, we must educate you. Pani c’a meusa!”

It sounds kind of gross… “Nonsense! This is one of Palermo’s favorite snacks. Step right up to my little cart!”

It smells kind of gross… “Nonsense! Nothing could be more delicious than the marvelous pani c’a meusa!”

It looks kind of like chopped-up tripe stuffed into a bun … “Well, yes. That’s exactly what it is. Two euros, please!”

Yep, in this town full of incredible home-cooked pastas and amazing pizzas, of sweets and treats galore, of aromatic bakeries and fresh fruit vendors on every corner, one of the most popular kinds of street food is hacked beef spleen and tripe in a bun. Of course we had to try one, but first a beer. And then another, and a third, and now my courage is sufficiently bolstered. Un pani c’a meusa, per favore!

We were at the Palermo soccer match, and I figured that it was as good a time as any to man up. Honestly, the little sandwich wasn’t all that bad. It was drenched in lemon and sufficiently spiced. But, regardless of the taste, I could never remove from my mind the fact that I was eating tripe, and I wasn’t able to get through the whole thing.

It’s the perfect way to tell a true Palermitano apart from a phony. Set down this tripe-sandwich in front of them… whoever gobbles it up the quickest is the real deal.

-Sicilian Cookbook

Other Soccer Games We Went To: Boca Juniors and San Lorenzo

Palermo’s football team plays in the top flight of one of the world’s best leagues, Italy’s Serie A. In the last few years, U.S. Città di Palermo has become one of the more feared sides in the country. This season, they had won all five games at home, in the Stadio Renzo Barbera. We went to a Sunday afternoon match against Fiorentina to see if they could continue the streak.

Palermo 2:0 Fiorentina

They did! But despite the two home goals, it wasn’t the most exciting match I’ve ever seen. After Palermo went up midway through the first half, there was a lot of time-wasting long balls, flops and fouls. It didn’t detract from our enjoyment much; among the fans, the happy atmosphere which had begun in the parking lot beforehand carried on strong throughout the game’s 90 minutes.

The Stadio Renzo Barbera is in the northern section of town. It was built in 1932 during the Fascist rule of Italy, and has been renovated a number of times, most recently for the 1990 World Cup. Although the stadium doesn’t stand out in terms of exciting architecture, its backdrop of Monte Pellegrino is certainly inspiring.

We arrived early, wanting to partake in the pregame excitement. Traffic around the stadium is blocked and in front of the entrance are a lot of stands selling food and memorabilia. After ordering a couple sandwiches and some beer, we grabbed a corner and indulged in a bit of people watching. Excited pre-match fans always make for great people watching. Palermo’s colors are pink and black, and almost everyone in the crowd was sporting at least a scarf — I bought a cheap one just to fit in.

Our tickets were on the south curve, and cost €15 apiece. Palermo’s rowdiest supporters, its Ultras, occupy the north curve, so we had a good view of their smoke-bombing, flag-waving, song-singing madness. A good view, and well separated. The seats on the laterals are more expensive, and were the emptiest sections in the stadium (which for this rather unimportant match, wasn’t near capacity).

Before the game started, there was a minute of silence for the recent flood victims near Messina. A full minute of silence in Palermo is something I would have never dreamed possible. Turns out, it isn’t. After about twenty seconds, the crowd began clapping. It wasn’t at all disrespectful or outrageous, but it wasn’t exactly the silence which had been called for. I think complete quiet makes Sicilians nervous.

We were able to buy our tickets for the game at a cigarette shops a couple days before the match. I don’t know if many tabaccherie sell them, but the place on the corner of Via Vittorio Emanuele and Bottai definitely does, if you’re looking. It was a great day out.

U.S. Città di Palermo – Website
Location of the Stadium on our Palermo Map

Erice Hotel Booking

From a mountain top overlooking Trapani, in Sicily’s northwestern corner, the town of Erice has a history rooted in mythology. We spent a few hours getting lost on the uneven stone roads and tiny alleys which curve senselessly about the town, and felt as though we’d stepped back in time. If only the weather had played along.

The best way to get from Trapani to Erice is with a cable car. It runs constantly and requires just fifteen minutes, providing an incredible panoramic view as you go, but service is suspended when it’s windy. And, of course, it was windy on the late November day we chose for our day trip. Dejectedly, we bought tickets for the bus, which takes over an hour to reach the top of the mountain takes over an hour.

Once we arrived in Erice, though, we cheered up immediately. The city was known Eryx to the Greeks, and has a history stretching back to the Phoenicians. For centuries, it was one of Sicily’s most important cities until being destroyed during the Punic Wars. According to legend, a giant statue of Aphrodite crowned the mountain, visible to passing sailors as a welcome beacon.

We wandered through the streets without a plan, and soon became completely lost. Small, circular Erice is the kind of place in which it’s a pleasure to lose your orientation. Every couple minutes, we’d encounter another ancient church, tower or palace and eventually we emerged at Pepoli Castle. Built during Arabic times on the side of a cliff overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the castle now acts as a hotel.

After we had walked back to the center of town, it began to rain, heavily and suddenly. We were within meters of a restaurant, laughing at our luck, ran into Ulysses Pizzeria. But the laughter stopped upon realizing that the entire place had been reserved for a giant group of screaming, french-fry-throwing teenagers who were on a school excursion. The waiters immediately shooed us out, back into the rain. To get soaked.

This time, our disoriented wandering about the streets wasn’t so charming or pleasant at all. We hurried as fast as the slick, stony streets would allow, and darted into the first bar we could find, wet and angry. There, we scarfed down nasty microwaved lasagna at €7 a slice and chugged wine served straight from the tetra-pak (€3 a glass). When the rain let up, we left, not so wet but perhaps more angry.

During the summer, Erice is apparently packed to the gills with tourists, and with good reason. With sunny weather, the town must be unbelievable. Even though we had to fight through the rain, missed the cable car, and didn’t have enough time to truly settle down into Erice’s slower rhythm, we enjoyed ourselves quite a bit.

Location on our Sicily Map
-World Finest Espresso

Italian Ice Cream

One of the top sights in Palermo is the Norman Palace, on the western extreme of the old city center. A massive complex built in the 11th century, the palace is still used today as the seat of the Sicilian government. Tourists are allowed in, but understandably restricted to a small section.

The palace is most famous for its Palantine Chapel, added to the complex in 1132 by the Norman King Roger II. Blanketed in mosaics which illuminate Biblical figures and acts of the apostles, the chapel is starkly reminiscent of Monreale’s Cathedral, but smaller and more elegant. Though it was built during Norman rule, both Byzantine and Arab influences were still largely present in Sicily, and the chapel exhibits the styles of all three dynasties. Arabic arches and geometrical patterns, Byzantine mosaics and Norman architecture.

The chapel is impressive, but small, and after a few minutes we continued onto the Royal Apartments. Here, visitors were permitted only in guided groups, and since the tour was in Italian only, we didn’t get much out of it. We started in the spacious Sala d’Ercole, which is today used for the Regional Assembly of Sicily, and moved on through a number of other evocatively-named rooms: Sala Pompeiana, Sala Cinesi, Sala dei Venti. The Sala di Ruggero, or “Roger’s Room” was the most impressive, with mosaics depicting hunting scenes and a gorgeous neoclassical table in the center, made of petrified sequoia.

The hill on which the palace is built was originally the site of Phoenician settlements, the remains of which can still be seen in the basement. Although it’s just a group of stone walls, this is one of the most compelling areas in the castle, thanks to the sheer age of its constructions.

The Palazzo dei Normanni is one of the stops on the Cruise-Ship-Itinerary, and crowds can be dreadful. And thanks to the guaranteed buses of tourists, the entry price (€9) is completely out of proportion with what you can see. We had the annoying sense of being rushed through, and there was very little information for non-Italian speakers. Still if you’ve got some time, you should consider taking a peek inside one of the city’s most historic buildings.

Location on our Palermo Map
-The Only English Speaking Oviedo Guide

Cactus Pear Jelly

One of the stranger fruits we’ve encountered in Palermo has been the cactus pear, which is sold at just about every market stand in the city. Fico d’India, as it’s known here, is native to Sicily, despite its name, and a popular snack with Palermitani. We had to try it.

When we bought them at a fruit stand, the spikes had already been skinned off. Mostly. I thought it’d be safe to handle the fruit like a ball, tossing it into the air and catching it. And for the next couple hours, I was picking the tiny, nearly invisible thorns out of my hands. Lesson 1: never trust a cactus fruit.

Once I had healed up, it was time to try the fico out. We sliced off the ends, as we’d seen vendors at the market do it, then made a slice lengthwise through the skin. After peeling, we were left with a bright red fruit. We chopped it up into a few chunks and I took my revenge on the prickly fruit by consuming it. It’s got a sweet, melon-like taste and the flesh is full of seeds — so many that spitting them out one-by-one would be hopeless. Luckily, they’re edible.

I don’t know if I’ll ever add the cactus fruit to my list of favorites, what with the seeds and pain, but it was certainly interesting to try.

Other weird fruit we tried: The Chirimoya – Mark Twain’s Favorite Fruit

One of the most photographed objects in Palermo is the giant, snow-white fountain in the Piazza Pretoria, just southeast of the Quatro Canti. The fountain sits in front of City Hall and has become a symbol of governmental corruption. Disgust with Palermo’s legendary malfeasance, in addition to the fountain’s abundant nudity, are the two reasons that Plaza Pretoria is known among citizens as the Plaza of Shame (Piazza della Vergogna).

Shameful or not, the fountain is stunning, especially after a recent refurbishment which restored its shining whiteness. Built for a Spanish nobleman in Florence, it was sold and transported to Palermo in 1573. The massive size of the city’s new treasure required the demolition of a few houses around the Piazza Pretoria, but that was a small price to pay for such an impressive new plaything.

With legions of statues representing mythological Greek gods and fantastical creatures, and a diameter measuring over 36 meters, the fountain takes a while to fully admire. Three tiered levels ascend to a column atop which a likeness of Dionysus sits (surely not helping with the perception of corruption). With bridges and stairs, the fountain appears to invite climbing and explored, but a fence keeps onlookers well away.

Location on our Palermo Map
-Sicilian Cook Books

Book Bagheria Hotels Here

Occupying a bluff fifteen kilometers east of Palermo, Bagheria enjoys a privileged position with views of both the Mediterranean and the capital. Its name either descends from the Phoenician Bayharia (“land that descends toward the sea”) or the Arabic Bāb al-Gerib (“windy gateway”). Both descriptions are apt.

In the 18th century, the elite of Palermo chose Bagheria as the place to escape city life and erect their villas. These remain into the present day, and give the town of 55,000 a peculiar feel. Gorgeous Baroque and Neoclassical villas with poetic names like Palagonia, Spedalotto and Serradifalco are spotted throughout the town, hidden among ugly newer constructions thrown together in the post-war years.

The fantastic Villa Palagonia is the big touristic draw in the city, and we’ll be writing about it soon. Just outside the town is the Villa Católica, which houses a museum dedicated to the painter Renato Guttuso. Besides that, though, there isn’t a lot to see in Bagheria, and a walk around the town doesn’t require more than a couple hours. We enjoyed ourselves, though; the street life was lively, and we particularly appreciated the pedestrian-only zone; something Palermo itself is in desperate need of.

In Sicilian, Bagheria is called Baarìa, which is also the name of an excellent film by Giuseppe Tornatore. Baarìa opened the 2009 Venice Film Festival, and was nominated for a Golden Globe. Following the life of a man from Bagheria from youth through old age, the film provides an interesting lesson on Sicilian politics and history.

Bagheria on our Sicily Map
-Buy the movie Baarìa here

Make your own: Connoli Tubes

One of our Palermitano readers recently told us that although the most famous nickname for the city is la Felice (“The Happy One”), Palermo is more well known around Sicily as la Licca (“The Glutton”). I think both apply. As I munch down yet another cannolo, I am both happy and gluttonous. Yes, I know I’ve got cream smeared across my face and cookie flakes on my shirt. So what? BURP

Cannolo is the singular, cannoli is the plural… and, as I’ve recently learned, you should never say cannolis. The word means “little tube”, which in this case is a sweet, fried wafer, rolled up and filled with thick, white ricotta-based cream. Tube-shaped, filled with white cream; don’t let it spoil your enjoyment of the treat, but it shouldn’t come as a surprise to learn that cannoli were originally a symbol of fertility, eaten during Carnival.

Cannoli are insanely delicious, and it’s no wonder that they’ve become popular throughout the world. Though you can find cannoli in the USA, those little mini-sticks don’t compare with the mammoth tubes of Palermo (I know, I know, the “symbol of fertility”; but try not to read innuendo into my words). American cannoli just don’t compare; Palermo is the treat’s birthplace, and still the best place in the world to try them. But even within the city, quality varies widely. Some of the more touristy places don’t use actual ricotta, or leave them sitting around for hours, which ruins the cookie’s crispiness.

We had our introduction to cannoli at Bakery Rosciglione, near the Ballarò Market, and still haven’t tasted better. The cream and the wafers are made fresh in this tiny shop, and when we expressed curiosity, the baker ushered us into the kitchen, so we could see how he prepared them fresh. (Yes, he took us into the back room to show us his cannoli. Get your mind out of the gutter.)

So, cannoli. Yet another Palermitano attack upon our fitness level. You win, Sicily — we give up. We’ll stop trying to control ourselves, and just give ourselves over to gluttony.

Location of Rosciglone on our Palermo Map
- Pizza Cook Books